Tête de Paneyron

A steep climb onto a round-topped hill amongst spectacular scenery.

TOTAL DISTANCE: 8km
APPROXIMATE TIME: 3hrs

START: Col de Vars
FINISH: Col de Vars

The Vars area of mountains lies just to the south of the Queyras Regional Park and a good bit north of the Ubaye valley. With the Col de Vars at its head, the valley is a sort of no-man's land of lush forests and peaks which are only accessible to the climbing fraternity. Except for one: the Tête de Paneyron lies just north of the Col de Vars and, unlike its immediate neighbours, offers an accessible and enjoyable walk for hikers. 

The monument at the Col de Vars.

To begin this walk, park opposite the restaurant-cum-shop at the col de vars. This is a great place to grab a drink or buy a souvenir, though the shop did seem perpetually understaffed so be ready to wait a good while before being served.

After parking, head across the road and eastward, following the road until you reach a wide, cambered track slanting up the hillside to the left. Follow this track up and around the contour of the hill.  You may see herds of sheep or goats along this section who, despite even the hottest of weather, insist on huddling together in large groups in the pastures either side of the track.  

This wide track finishes at a small ramshackle hut. To continue the walk, look out for a small signpost about fifty metres before the hut, which indicates a small path over the boggy remainder of a lake. Although this is a fine path, the possibility of getting your feet wet here mean it is better to walk to the right, around the boggy area and crossing the small stream at its tip, before then travelling round the other side of the bog to meet the signposted path (look for the yellow markers on stakes).

Continue where you left off, following this now clear path up the hillside, up the varying inclines and through the alpine meadows; if its warm enough you will be able to hear the cacophony of crickets about you.

Soon, the incline will become steeper. Make sure to take your time; spend the quickest time walking the flat sections (which are plentiful) and go at a gentle pace on the steeper bits. At the top of the first steep section there is a small clump of stone seats. Needless to say use these at your leisure! 

Soon, your destination, the Tete de Paneyron, emerges into view

Soon the meadow dissipates in favour of a rockier, less stable terrain. This is combined with the path beginning to run parallel to a cliff edge to the left. Make sure you have good walking footwear for this section. The incline can also be somewhat unrelenting here, though the unstable terrain is not dangerous at this point.

There is a point, however – you'll know when – when walking becomes a little hairy, as the path becomes not only somewhat slippier, but also runs along the top of a large re-entrant. Although it is safe enough if care is taken, it is also possible to ascend the hillside to the left, and reach the summit that way.

Otherwise, continue up the path and then, at the small col, turn left to reach the summit, complete with a sign.

The view is spectacular: to the north, the jagged peaks of the southern Queyras loom in front of you; to the north east sit the  Aiguilles de Chambeyron, the biggest of which - the flat-topped behemoth that is the Brec de Chambeyron - marks the Italian border. To the east lies the other side of the Vars valley, with the Grand Parpailon dominating much of the southern skyline; beyond this ridge lies the Ubaye valley. 

Views towards the Ubaye valley mountains.

Last, but most certainly not least, is the  Écrins National Park , which on a clear day can be seen glistening temptingly on the western skyline. Particularly notable is the massive, magical cup of sugar of Pelvoux and the the glacier blanc, a must-see if you are ever in the ecrins. 

Cloud covers the Ecrins mountains on an otherwise sunny day.

But don't take my word for it - look for yourself...




A lovely hill amongst a host of inaccessible mountains, the Tete de Paneyron is the Vars valley's hidden gem.